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Q. Why don't all glazes work with every clay?
A. A glaze must fit just right over the clay body. If the fit is too tight, crazing (crackling) or shivering (peeling off) results, too loose and your glaze could crawl (pull away on spots). Every clay body shrinks at a different percentage, as do glazes. Glaze is also affected by the ingredients in the clay bodies themselves. High iron bodies will almost always interfere with lighter and translucent glazes, deepening or changing the color.

Q. Will KPS Glazes work in reduction as well?
A. Yes, when fired to the recommended cone. However, some glazes will have a much different look, as will the clay body. We always recommend making samples.

Q. Is low-fire work food-safe?
A.To a limited extent, which is dependent on clay & glaze fit. The glaze must fit snugly yet not allow any crazing. Crazing allows areas for bacteria to harbor. If latent crazing develops, it is no longer food safe. Over the long run we do not consider low-fire work food safe. We suggest you inquire about which glazes fit our lowfire bodies properly. Lowfire pieces should never be used in the oven, microwave or dishwasher. Raku-fired pieces should not be considered food-safe because of glaze crazing and clay porosity.

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  • Glaze Troubleshooting

    Pinholes: The most common of all glaze defects, pinholes are tiny holes in the glaze surface which penetrate all the way through to the clay body. They are caused by gasses escaping from the clay body during the firing cycle, after originating from tiny pieces of organic matter, which is present in the clay. It can also be caused by dusty bisqueware. In lowfire, it is recommended to bisque fire 2 cones hotter than the glaze firing. If the pieces are dusty, it is easiest to dunk the piece fully into a bucket of clean water and immediately glaze.  Sometimes a longer bisque fire cycle with a 5-15 minute soak at the peak temperature helps. It is also good to do a very slow cool cycle catching the cool down with a 5 minute soak every 200°. Other remedies include: changing the peak temperature to one cone higher; a thinner glaze coating; dunking the bisque in water before glazing; using a glaze with more flux and decreasing the amount of zinc or rutile in the glaze if it is present.

  • Crazing: Glazes that have "crazed" show a fine pattern of cracks in the surface of the glaze. Sometimes they are easier to detect by breathing on the piece and "fogging" the glaze surface. Crazing is a result of a mismatch between the coefficient of expansion of the glaze and the clay body. When the glaze has too high a coefficient of expansion relative to the clay body, crazing will occur. In other words, they are shrinking at different rates with the clay body being too large. The solution is to reduce this difference in expansion. This can be done by changing to a lower expansion glaze or adding a relatively low expansion material such as silica to the existing glaze. Alternatively, you can switch to a higher expansion clay body. or change your bisque to one or two cones higher. Remember, not all glazes fit all clays. Be sure to ask for our advice, we are more than willing to take the time to help you.

    Shivering: When a glaze shivers it cracks and pieces of the glaze peel right off the piece, often at the edges of the piece. This is another mismatch in expansion coefficients, but this is the opposite to crazing. In this case the glaze expansion is too low relative to the clay body. One solution is to increase the expansion of the glaze by adding a material such as a high expansion frit. Sometimes shivering can be preventing by layering another glaze overtop the first, especially aroud the rim or sharp edges.

    Crawling: When a glaze crawls or creeps it will tend to mound up and expose an area of bare clay. This often happens in corners where glaze has built up too heavily or has not flowed all the way into the corners. Glaze can crawl in firing due to the presence of dust, grease, finger prints or other dirt on the bisque. Too much tin oxide will cause crawling, also. Sometimes crawling can be a fault of the glaze chemicals being milled to finely. It can also be caused by shrinkage and the consequent cracking of the glaze as it dries before being fired. Also, when underglaze is applied too heavily it may lead to crawling of the covering layer of clear glaze. One general solution to crawling is to thin the glaze either by adding water or by applying less glaze.

    Blisters: Glaze Blisters look like little craters, approximately 1/8" diameter. Possible causes of blistering are: too thick a layer of glaze; insufficient drying of the glazed piece prior to firing; or too dense a clay body which traps air in the piece. Sometimes lowering the bisque and slowing down the cool will heal over blisters.

    Settling Out: This is the most common problem for glazes prior to firing, which may also result in firing problems. When a glaze settles out some of the heavier components of the glaze settle to the bottom of the container. If you try to use this glaze without thoroughly remixing you will be applying a glaze with key ingredients missing. A glaze stays in suspension due to the presence of various types of clays, such as bentonite, and or gums, such as CMC. One common cause of settling out is the addition of too much water to the glaze, which dilutes the effect of the suspending agents and allows some of the glaze ingredients to settle out. Another possibility is the growth of bacteria which will consume an organic gum, such as CMC, and will lead to loss of suspension. To prevent bacteria growth do not return used glaze, which has been poured out of the original container into a new batch. Storing glaze in a hot or sunny environment may also encourage bacteria growth. Freezing can also destroy the action of CMC, so brushing type glazes in particular should not be shipped by unheated freight in the winter when the possibility of freezing exists. If a glaze has settled out, but has not gone rock hard in the bottom of the container, it can be re-suspended by the careful addition of Epsom salts or our Dry Suspender/Binder. Epsom salts can be readily purchased in most drug stores. First you need to create a saturated solution of Epsom salts by dissolving them in a cup of warm water until no more will dissolve (super-saturated). Then add this solution slowly and carefully to the glaze while continuously stirring the glaze. It should require less than approximately one teaspoon of Epsom salt solution per gallon of glaze. The quantity will depend on the severity of the problem, but you can add to much.

    Downdraft Vents and Their Effects on Glaze Problems: Glaze defects like pinholes, blisters and a few other small problems are very frequently helped by the "fresh air in-contaminated air out" feature of downdraft vent systems.

Makers of cone 6 glazes for the studio potter.

KPS Clay Company * 1986 Tucker Ind. Rd * Tucker, GA 30084
Phone: (800) 241-1895 or 770-986-9011 * Fax: (678) 205-2001